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How to make Machinable Wax at home! by rawkstar320
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Intro

How to make Machinable Wax at home!

Featured on Hackaday.com!  Woohoo!  But for records sake, my name is Jake: http://hackaday.com/2012/12/29/make-your-own-machinable-wax
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A major issue that I ran into when I first started working with my new CNC machine was the cost of raw materials to machine. Sure, a block of plastic is not terribly expensive by itself – but figure in the cost after you mess something up and the cost becomes quite unreasonable. For this reason, I began looking into machinable wax.

Machinable wax is a very hard wax that won’t gum up a cutting tool, is soft enough to machine quickly and most importantly is completely reusable! Since I am cheap, I decided to make my own, which is actually quite simple and could be considered environmentally friendly since we use recycled plastic bags. Be aware that this Instructable is DANGEROUS! We will be melting wax
around 300* and this wax will be thick and sticky so it will literally burn your skin off faster than you can say “OUCH!”

(The basic recipe is 4 parts wax to 1 part plastic)

You will need:

- Paraffin Wax (Available at Hobby Lobby)
- Plastic Shopping Bags (HDPE or LDPE, Recycle symbol #2 or #4)
- Deep fryer WITH adjustable thermostat
- Candy Thermometer (to make sure your fryer thermostat is working correctly)
- Wood Spoon
- Leather Gloves
- Safety Glasses
- Molds (I’ve used Tins, Wood frames, and Cardboard)
- Strainer
- Wax paper is handy
- A scale to measure wax/plastic

Melting Wax

Set your deep fryer to the “Warm” setting or 100* if applicable and add the paraffin wax. Keep stirring the wax until it is completely liquid. Once melted, you could add a crayon for color if you would like. I recommend leaving the candy thermometer in the wax to keep a better eye on the temperature.
Paraffin ignites at around 400*F.

Don't forget that what your looking at is melted wax, not water.  Hot water will splash and drip off of you, hot wax will splash and STICK TO YOUR SKIN!  So be careful....

Melting Bags

Set your deep fryer to 300*F and monitor the temperature with the thermometer. Make sure you continue to stir the wax because we do not want any hot spots that could cause the wax to ignite.

Once you hit 300*, begin adding the plastic bags, one at a time. It helps to cut them into strips so that they wont ball up, but I don’t have any data to support a specific way just yet. The more your stir this mixture, the faster the bags will dissolve (Just don't get too crazy, you could introduce a lot of air into the wax). Continue adding bags until they won’t dissolve any more.  Most of the plastic should have dissolved, leaving just a few chunks left.  With LDPE this is usually a 25% mixture, whereas HDPE bags are around 15%. Stay patient, this process can take a while.

Casting the Wax

Once your bags are dissolved, it is almost time to pour the wax into molds.  You may have some small clumps of plastic at this point, and there are a few different ways to remove them.  The first option is to use a kitchen strainer to filter out the clumps as your pour the liquid goo into your molds.  This works very well, but I have yet to be able to re-use the kitchen strainer afterwards.  The second (and less effective) is to turn off your fryer and let the clumps float to the top.  The top of the liquid will start to solidify and make it easier to skim off the clumps with a spoon.  Either way, wear leather gloves!

If you chose option #2, turn your fryer back on and make sure your wax is liquid before pouring.  When pouring into molds, pour slowly but be committed as you do not want wax to drip down the side of your fryer.  Once poured, cover the molds with a towel so that they cool slowly.  The slower they cool, the more likely that air bubbles will escape before getting stuck in the wax.

Machine that Wax!

Out of the mold, the wax will have a HUGE sink mark in the middle; I usually just clamp the sides of the block and face off about ¼” to get it flat.  Then I flip the block and machine to thickness.  If you are carful and clean your vacuum ahead of time, you can save the chips to re-melt later.  I keep a container nearby where I store my wax chips.

Recycle Your Wax

When recycling your wax, I recommend using no more than 50%-75% reground wax.  This is due to the fact that plastics degrade rapidly when heated (think compost) and can start to smoke/burn/ignite if you are not careful.  Therefore, start by melting paraffin wax, adding new bags and THEN adding your recycled wax.

Good luck and be safe!
Lorddrake says: Dec 28, 2012. 11:24 AM
have you tried "cleaning" your strainer with a propane torch?
dbunting says: Dec 30, 2012. 7:00 AM
id think a good heat gun would do the trick. blow HOT air in from the top, it will soften and or melt the wax and blow it through the strainer
drobertson says: Dec 29, 2012. 10:17 AM
A good batch of Acetone may do the trick also. Not sure if Acetone works on wax, but it certainly works on plastic.
Just be careful with the Acetone around the fryer. It is VERY flammable.
rawkstar320 (author) says: Dec 29, 2012. 12:52 PM
Propane sounds like a fire hazard...not sure about the acetone plan, but it might be something to try.
Heliosphan says: Dec 29, 2012. 3:34 PM
How about doing what you should do when you get wax in the carpet. Apply heat to the surface and mop it up with kitchen roll or some other wipe.
Put the strainer above a heat source, melt the wax, then dab it off 'till it's gone.
Just a guess.
Dream Dragon says: Dec 29, 2012. 7:37 AM
That's a really interesting idea. I hadn't heard of nor thought about machining "wax" like that before, but it does seem to solve a lot of problems. Do you use it as a test piece to make sure your cutting path is correct and then go on to cut the part in other material, or do you use it in a "lost wax" kind of casting process?

Have you tried other wax additives like Stearin and Carnuba?
gyro_john says: Dec 29, 2012. 4:47 PM
In the CNC machining trade, Machinable Wax is commonly used for proving out a complex program before trying it in metal. You are saved from (some) tool crashes, you get to see if the part is right, and it can be machined at a considerably higher rate than metal.

I've been wanting some to try, and too cheap to buy it. Many thanks, rawkstar, for the recipe!
rawkstar320 (author) says: Dec 29, 2012. 6:04 PM
No problem! Good luck and be safe!
n1cod3mus says: Dec 29, 2012. 3:12 PM
shame paraffin wax is so hard to get hold of here in the UK and if you can get it, its massivly expensive.

still a good instructable, would be great for lost wax casting of metals.
matstermind says: Dec 29, 2012. 4:14 PM
Thats exactly what i was thinking.
AndyInAnnArbor says: Dec 29, 2012. 1:49 PM
For dissolving paraffin, you need a non-polar solvent like mineral spirits or hexane. Acetone, which is a polar solvent like water or alcohol won't work (like dissolves like). Polyethylene is also non-polar, but not nearly as soluble in hexane, so it may not clean the screen completely. Mineral spirits and hexane are also very flammable, so be careful.
AndyInAnnArbor says: Dec 28, 2012. 7:49 AM
Good Instructable. You can also get paraffin from almost any grocery store in food canning section. How well does it match your expectations for clean cutting? Does it leave any significant residue on the cutter?
rawkstar320 (author) says: Dec 28, 2012. 8:05 AM
It cuts very cleanly, the only problem to watch out for is swarf sticking to the part. The cutter stays nice and clean, much more so than cutting UHMW PE actually.

You can buy paraffin at the grocery store, but it is about 50% cheaper at hobby stores....strangely enough.
bruce.desertrat says: Dec 29, 2012. 8:25 AM
Not so strange...the paraffin sold in grocery stores is food-grade, (it's found in the canning section) whereas the wax sold in hobby stores is for candle making.
rawkstar320 (author) says: Dec 29, 2012. 12:54 PM
Good point.
drobertson says: Dec 29, 2012. 10:13 AM
Great instructable. Thank you for this!!!

Considering I have a home built CNC machine and I am very cheap, this is perfect.

Have you tried using this wax for investment casting? I am just curious if the hot metal burns the plastic in the wax mixture and creates chunks.

One thought I had for your straining issue was to use a larger holed colander lined with
cheese cloth. The cheese cloth should catch the larger plastic chunks and the larger holes should allow you to clean the colander for re-use. You may not want to use it for food again, but at least you could skip the expense of a new strainer each batch.

Thanks again for this.
Doug
rawkstar320 (author) says: Dec 29, 2012. 12:53 PM
Usually investment casting involves burning out the wax ahead of time in a kiln/oven. The only time we investment cast directly onto the form material is when we use foam.

But, no, I have not tried it yet. :-D
rimar2000 says: Dec 28, 2012. 4:36 PM
Very interesting and useful info, thanks for sharing it. I have not a CNC machine, but this hard wax can be used to turn, carve, modeling, etc.
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